Hair Extension Grade

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

By Lisa

Bonjour, I was asked by a good friend of mine to contribute to the blog. So I think it is time to debunk some of the rumors of the infamous grading system with the human hair extension world? First let me make sure we outline the topics so we don’t get lost:

1. Where did it start?
2. Hair Grade
3. Quality Hair

So I will take you back to about 10 years ago, remember when Indian was the newest and best hair. Well, let me jog your memory a little more around that time is when you first heard the term 3A-5A. That was when someone said that was the best. Then every couple of years after the number of A’s kept growing. But sometimes the quality still seemed the same. Did you ever have the feeling that the hair suppliers came up with this system just to hike the price up without really explaining why? Also, if that wasn’t enough you had people singing the Virgin Remi (Remy Episode 118 : What is Remy Hair) song.

We will talk about the 3 most commonly used different grading systems. Let me make this clear, no certified board of cosmetology or manufacture controls the validity of this ever-changing grading system. So let’s try and make some sense of this craziness. The first will be Grades using A to describe the amount of premium hair strands being used in the 3.5-4 ounces of hair.

Grade A: 100% human remy hair single drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, less than 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AA: 100% human remy hair 50% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAA: 100% human remy hair 60% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 60% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAA+: 100% human remy hair 75% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 75% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAAA+: 100% human remy hair 90% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, the majority of the hairs will measure 18″.

• Debunk: this version seems to closely mirror the same explanation given for Single Drawn hair (Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn). Also not all hair harvested from donors is Remy (Remi) Hair.

Now let’s discuss the infamous number system. This is similar to the ranking above. Because let’s be honest when you order hair you would walk in to your hair store or beauty supply and tell the sales clerk that you want quality AAAAAAAA+, so 8A is the same as the written out version. But when you hear 8A you typically associate it towards the quality and luster of the hair. But this system is normally the way most suppliers/retailers grade the integrity of the hair. It is an easier way for the customers to judge the quality of what you are getting and paying for.
This s a hair grade chart:

 

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  •  Debunk a talented well-trained master colorist can dye just about any type of human hair. Correct 4A hair is considered low quality for a number of reasons, but the main factors are due to the health of the donor, and manufactures sourcing technique. Yes, all hair has different lifespans anywhere from 90 days to 5+ years. This is due to the amount of coloring, perming, cutting, and thermal styling. With proper care and conditioning your investment can last for years, if the quality of the hair is high. Lower grade hair is good when matching Yaki texture hair, or if you need the hair for a shorter time frame (3 months).

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Most wholesalers use a combination of the number / letter system (i.e. 7A, 8A, 10A, etc.) or another system such as low grade, mid-grade, best or high-grade. They typically will group the hair into these categories. At the end of the day, find a reputable seller that has consistence with providing quality hair.

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Single Drawn vs Double Drawn

Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn Hair?

Episode 125: What is Double Drawn Hair?

By Rico

 

Helloo Ladies,

It has been a long time. Well I would like to discuss what is Single Drawn Hair Vs. Double Drawn Hair. I recently had this discussion with a client who had purchased some loose hair from AEOMH. She was not aware of the term Single drawn vs. double drawn. She wanted to know why weren’t all the hairs the exact same length. I explained that traditionally single drawn hair is normally fuller toward the weft or tip. This is how our natural hair grows, allowing for a more natural finish towards the ends of the hair. A normal 3.5-4 ounces of hair will be a mix of the length you desire (i.e. 8”, 10”, 12”, 16”, 18”, etc.) which would be 50% 22” and then a 50% mix of 16” and 18”. Thus is allowing for that natural finish that gradually tapers off. Now let me let you in on a little secret, single drawn hair is cheaper. But can made to appear just as full as double drawn hair by trimming it up towards the fuller part (sometimes ¼ to ½ of an inch approximately). This hair is great if loads of volume is not a priority. I am not saying it can’t be achieved with the help of a great mouse (Wella, Redken) and a great volume hairspray like Redken Triple Take 32 high hold.doublele drawn photo Single-Drawn-vs-Double-Drawn_zpsbfx88fm7.jpg

Now, here comes the crash course in understanding the term double drawn. When the hair is laid out for measuring after the hacking, the hair undergoes an additional process before the weft can be sewn. The shorter hairs are removed by hand and not by a sorting machine. The alternative is to cut the human hair at the ends, so that the fullness remains the same from the top to end and then the hair is sewn into the weft. This significantly increases the volume of the hair extensions and provides for a fuller body, and more glamorous appearance of the hair extensions.

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At the end of day let’s be honest about 2 things. #1 would be the budge you are working with. This is an investment and should have a considerable amount of thought and research, put into the decision. #2 would be finding a picture of the desired style and either consulting a licenses stylist for a recommendation on how to achieve a finished look. The best advice I can give is to buy quality hair from a source you have dealt with or has decent feedback from their buyers. Many sellers are passing off human hair that is mixed and won’t hold up.

Rico

 

 

 

 

 

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remy hair

Episode 118 : What is Remy Hair?

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Episode 118: What Is Remy Hair?

By Mariah

I am back! Mariah, I want to talk about Remy Remi hair. What it is, and why not everything that has the name is actually the real deal. Remy Human Hair is one of the highest grades of human hair extensions. Human hair is a preferred choice for hair extensions, hairpieces and wigs because it has the most realistic natural look. And the hair has a longer lifespan than that of synthetic and regular human hair that has been mixed.

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Remy Hair is considered to be one of the finest qualities of human hair because the cuticles are kept intact and not stripped, like in most other non-Remy hair extensions. Preserving the hairs cuticles and aligning them in a unidirectional fashion creates extensions that are provides a more natural looking appearance. This process ensures that the hair remains super soft, shiny, silky and completely tangle-free throughout its lifetime.

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This is an accurate picture of how remy hair should look like. The shine and luster.

Remy Human Hair means the hair has been carefully sorted after collecting from the hair donor to ensure all the cuticles are the same length and facing the same direction. It is one of the best quality human hair extensions on the market because of the care that goes into making sure that all of the cuticles are aligned and facing the same direction. Aligning the cuticles is a time consuming process. Tremendous care has been taken to ensure that the life of the hair can be extended.

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This is not real Remy Hair. This is a mixed cheap version of mixed fibers.

What is the difference between synthetic and human hair extensions? Remy Hair is made from human hair which can be color dyed, thermal styled (curled or straightened), styled, washed, and treated like your own natural hair. Hair extensions made from synthetic hair are sensitive to the sun, don’t last as long as human hair, are difficult to style (due to the not being able to curl or straighten or apply heat), and cannot blend in as well with your natural hair (due to silicone coating and heaviness of the fibers used). Expect to pay anywhere from $40-$150 for Synthetic hair extensions or wigs due to the short life span. Actual remy hair or human hair extensions will cost anywhere from $100-$2000 for human hair extensions or wigs.

Human hair extensions can seem like a costly investment but can last anywhere up to 5+ years if properly cared for by a professional. Compared to the unrealistic wiggy look you get with synthetic extensions.Which are meant for short term applications ( proms,weddings, special occasion events). We need to as women put a little more effort into what we use to achieve the level of beauty that is equal to that which is equal to what’s on the inside.

Mariah

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hydrate hair

Episode 116 : How To Hydrate Your Hair Naturally?

hydrate hair

How to hydrate hair naturally.

Episode 116: How To Hydrate Dry Hair Naturally?

By Rebecca

I would like to show you how to hydrate dry hair naturally. Hair can become dry over time due to seasonal changes, pollution from the environment, and dietary changes. The first change would be to make sure you have a balanced diet including drinking at least 2 liters to a gallon of water per day. A vitamin regiment that includes Vitamins A, E, and biotin will help the keratin in the hair follicle. Please read another blog post entitled “Episode 113 : What Vitamins Help Grow Hair ?”. Certain foods can give you the days needed dose of fatty acids (avocadoes), silica (potatoes), and omega-3 (fish) will help with shine.

Now let me show you 3 natural hair masks that will quench the thirst of your dry brittle hair. These are pre-shampoo treatments that can be done prior to your normal shampoo regiments.

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Coconut Hydration Mask
1. Organic Virgin Coconut Oil
2. Shower cap
3. Hood Hair Dryer or Hand Blow Dryer
4. Paddle Brush

This method is really easy start with brushing hair to release any knots or tangles. Now flip hair starting from the back brush hair now take a quarter size amount coconut oil and begin massaging it into the scalp and working down to smoothing oil out to the tips of your hair. Repeating this step until the hair is completely saturated. You will work this oil throughout the hair making sure it is saturated and moist. Now take your shower cap and either sit under a hood dryer for a more deep conditioning treatment. Or you can just continue with your normal routine but allow it to sit for 15-20 minutes before rinsing. Now rinse out the oil with warm water. Begin normal shampoo routine and there is no limit to how often to use this so don’t feel like you have to ration to make good use. It is good to use as much a needed depending on dryness or as a weekly deep conditioner treatment.

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Avocado Honey Olive Oil Hair Mask

1. 1 Large Ripe Avocado
2. 1 Tablespoon of Raw Honey
3. 1 Tablespoon of Olive Oil
4. 1 Bowl
5. 1 Spoon
6. Hood Dryer ( low setting optional)

Start by using a knife to cut and peel the avocado into four pieces. Then place the pieces into a bowl. Take the spoon and begin pressing the pieces of avocado into a puree. Making sure to smooth out all the lumps. Gradually stir in honey and olive oil. Proceed with a light rinse and while hair is wet begin massaging the mixture into the hair making sure that the hair is evenly coated throughout your entire head. Now you have 2 options, the first is to place hair under a shower cap and sit und the dryer for 30-45 minutes. The second is to place hair under a shower cap and sit without heat for 30-45 minutes. After the allotted time then proceed with normal shampoo routine.

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Coconut Milk Rinse
1. 1 Can of Coconut Milk
2. Shower Cap
3. Hood Dryer (optional)

This option is by far the easiest. Open a can of coconut milk and evenly distributed throughout your hair. Place hair under a shower cap for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Proceed with normal shampoo routine.

All of these deep conditioner hair masks are all natural with no chemical additives. I will be stopping by often to add more of these natural hair care remedies.

Rebecca

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synthetic hair vs. human hair

Episode 115 : Know Your Hair Extension Synthetic Hair VS. Human Hair?

synthetic hair vs. human hair

human hair vs. synthetic hair

Episode 115 : Know Your Hair Extension Synthetic Hair VS. Human Hair!!

By Morgan

Heyyyy, I am Ms. Morgan! I will be contributing an article about synthetic fiber hair extensions being passed off as 100% human hair extensions in beauty supply stores. This is an epidemic sweeping the hair extension world and causing confusion to customers wondering why is this hair matting up and shedding. You may ask what is going on? It is women of all nationalities are being mislead thinking you are buying 100% human hair. Sorry for the time lost and confusion, lost money. Let me walk you through this educational glossary of keyword terms you should understand when you are buying hair.

Fiber Glossary

• Human Hair – Collected from a host (person), human hair can be curled, dyed, permed (relaxer), or styled just like your own hair. While it’s the most expensive hair used for hair extensions, it looks completely natural.

• Please understand that Chinese hair is one of the cheapest and most widely mislead hair types. Human hair can be dyed, permed (relaxer) to resemble a specific curl or kinky yaki texture. The con this hair will shed, matte, tangle after one wash. Resulting in hundreds of dollars being wasted.

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• Toyokalon® – Toyokalon brand fiber is more expensive than synthetic and Kanekalon, Toyokalon feels and looks closest to human hair. It has more sheen and tends to be silkier in texture than the Kanekalon and synthetic fiber. Like most man-made fibers used in hair extensions, Toyokalon can be heat styled (low heat blow dryer or a flat iron up to 100 degrees).

• An example of this fiber is widely used in wigs and mixed with human hair because it can be mass-produced.

• These fibers are constantly being mixed with human hair. This is done to pass off the fiber as more expensive human hair (this is more expensive because it is being grown by a human host)

• This hair typically only last for 14 – 30 days with daily styling being conducted. While constantly appearing dull everyday due to the scalps natural oils and environmental factors.

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• Kanekalon® – Kanekalon brand sythetic fiber is probably the most common of its kind, and is made from a material called Modacrylic. This fiber is flame retardant, which means that braids can be finished by burning the ends.

• This hair is most used for wigs and braided hairstyles.

• There are some hairpieces that can be used for shows or special occasion typically one use style.

• When dipped in boiling water and air dried this hair can be used with a hair dryer and with a low temperature curling iron

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• Synthetic – The least expensive synthetic fiber used for hair extensions is made from Polypropylene. This fiber is non-flame retardant, which means it should NEVER be exposed to heat, either to seal it or style it. One way to finish off the braid is to use an elastic band.

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Now that we have established some key terms when buying hair let’s have a heart to heart. First know what human hair looks like and feels like. Synthetic fiber hair will appear super shiny waxy. That is due to the silicone coating used to create clear coat sheen. Please don’t let the sales associates at the beauty supply sell you on a product that appears to good to be true.

Most hair that is packaged in a mass produced packaging, will more than likely be a mix of 2-7% of actual human hair. The synthetic fibers that are mixed in with the actual human hair are a combination of high heat fibers. For a manufacture to put human hair on the label it only has to actually contain a small amount of actual human hair.

This part of the beauty industry does not have a quality control department that can let consumers know which products are misleading or conducting fraudulent advertising. We as the consumer have to know about the products that we are buying. Some of these beauty supply store associates will start to sound like used car salesman. That is because as soon as you exit their establishments the sale is final, and you are stuck with an inferior product.

The sad part is most women will complain about the service and the quality of the product, but will be right back at the same place buying the same item. I understand that we as women have to look our best with sometimes limited resources, but we do not have settle for less than the best. I have heard of the bad quality hair, but find it amazing that the same people are still walking around with road kill on their head like a Sunday church hat. I hope this information has provided some insight to this sad epidemic. I know that it is hard but we must demand more and stick to it.

XOXOXO
Morgan

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