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Episode 121: What Is Keratin Pre-Tipped Hair Extensions?
A keratin pre-tipped hair extension is a small bunch of human hair extensions (also be aware that synthetic hair is often used also) that is pre-dipped into keratin protein glue adhesive to create a ‘tip’ at the top of the hair. The tip is usually 1/2″ to 1″ in length size, and the width size depends on the type of tip that has been formed. They come in various shapes similar to letters “I” “U” and “V” which is what the various names of the tipped hair extension is called. The tip that would be most ideal for you will depend on the method you choose to use to install the hair extensions.
Pre-tipped hair is hair that has been dipped one time into keratin glue adhesive. This means there is not enough glue to bond the hair together with your own hair. If you try to only use the glue that is on the hair extension you will begin to notice shedding, due to not creating a secure bond surrounding the hair. You must have additional keratin glue (either in a glue stick form or a pellet (typically used in fusion extensions) to complete the bonding process. You can also use the microbead technique. Pre-glued/pre-bonded hair is hair that has been dipped more than once to give the hair a thicker tip. With pre-glued hair you have enough glue to bond it and attach it to your hair (using a fusion heat wand).
I wanted to briefly explain what is keratin glue? A subject that is not really talked about to often, because let’s be honest once the hair extension is in; you feel beautiful so who cares right. But I want to explain what is in this keratin glue substance you are using to attach your hair extensions to your hair. Most of you are familiar with the glue stick method. This method is used with a glue gun (nothing special typical arts and craft type), which is used for most installations. Also you have another type of glue that comes in small little pellets that can also used with a melting pot.
The glue it’s self is a polyamide, which is a macromolecule (is a very large molecule commonly created by polymerization of a smaller subunits) with repeating units linked by amide bonds. This is one of the components that creates a bond that is able to be molded and shaped when heated with a low-temperature glue gun operate at approximately 120 °C (248 °F) and are well suited for hair extension bonding installations.
Keratin glue is somewhat of a new excitement to the mainstream beauty arena. If you are interested in learning about what is keratin check out this tutorial Episode 114: What Is Keratin? by Rebecca. This will outline the hype surrounding Keratin. Although some in the industry strongly debate and question if there are actual traces of Keratin in the glue whatever properties of the glue are slightly different than the normal clear glue. Here is the first point the break down of the regular glue when exposed to water or oil products slowly breakdown the bonding structure of the glue. The Italian Keratin glue has a stronger lasting hold that stands up to oil and water base products.
Now if you don’t want to spend the money just yet on this new wonder keratin glue. I have seen stylist melt down glue pellets and add keratin protein powder to the glue as an additive. Now here is my first warning if you failed chemistry then forget this whole paragraph because more than likely you’re going to have an weird science type of fallout. Oh wow, I think I’m showing my age annnyway. If you are not comfortable mixing something like color, it is safe to just buy it already mixed to try.
The best remover for the keratin glue or regular glue would be something like Seabreeze or 91% Isopropyl Alcohol will breakdown the glue. At this point moisten the glue surrounding the hair, put the hair in-between your thumb and forefinger and press and apply pressure. Begin applying pressure to the area that has the glue on it. Procced by rolling the area back and forth until you start to see the glue crumble into pices. At this point slowly and gently pick the pices of crumbled glue out of the hair. Once all glue has been removed slowly comb from root to tip to make sure that all glue areas have been properly removed. I hope this has answered some questions.
Episode 119: What Is Virgin Human Hair?
Hello,today I will be explaining what is Virgin human hair. Virgin human hair is only classified as human hair that has never been chemically treated ever or seen any kind of heat. You will hear the term raw hair that is the same as virgin human hair. Virgin human hair has never in it’s lifetime been to a salon, or been colored, it is natural. When virgin human hair or hair in general is harvested from a donor the donors regions should be considered when purchasing hair (i.e. Russian hair, Malaysian hair, Brazilian hair). Consider what is the location of the donor’s? Is it a country that is mostly rural or is it located near a more developed metropolitan areas that would have access to certain beauty items that would change the hair texture and health of the hair drastically.
Let’s face facts you will never know exactly where the hair came from or what was used make your hair extension was made from. But taking the time to understanding key terms will make selecting hair from your local beauty supply seem less trivial. Raw virgin hair (virgin human hair) is one of the highest qualities and this can make it more expensive. Why you ask, for a couple of reasons. Let’s say you are looking for red European 24 inches. Please consider where the hair extension will most likely come from and how was it taken care of by the donor. Those things make the quality and grade go up so naturally your prices will go up to. That is because the healthier the hair the harder it is to find it and harvest it. But also understand that many people pass off Asian hair as European by taking it through a series of chemical bleaching bathes that lighten the color, but start to damage the hair cuticle and start to stripe away the healthy layers from the hair. Which starts a downhill process that damages the hair from the inside out.
Let’s look at the facts you will never ever find cheap inexpensive virgin hair that concept doesn’t even go together. People will try and sell you anything. So please be knowledgeable about how good quality human hair feels like. Also understanding why is good quality human hair so expensive, this is why. You get the quality you pay for. Which means you will never find remy hair or virgin hair for $25. People will still sell you an item that they know is inferior or bad just to make a quick buck. This will leave you with a matted, tangled, shedding mess that isn’t even worth the return-shipping fee.
Episode 117: What Is European Hair Extensions?
I have had a lot of women ask me the question what is European hair or Russian hair extensions, and how is it better? And how does it compare to the hair we buy in the beauty supply stores. These two things are worlds apart from each other.
Let me first explain some key terms and a little geography lesson. European hair primary is derived from European countries such as Turkey, Uzbekistan, Eurasian and Ukrainian. These countries are great for harvesting hair that has natural blondes, reds, browns shades due to the genetics of the surrounding countries. This means that the hair does not need to be dyed to achieve a specific color. Which means the hair is healthier and will last longer. Now the hair can still be dyed, but the color does not have to go through such a drastic lifting process, which can lead to dying out the hair if the bleach is left on too long.
The hair that you are purchasing from your local beauty supply is usually not 100 % human hair. And to make sure you understand what you are buying just look and trust the feel. If the hair is too shiny or waxy looking you are more than likely looking at a mix of Toyokalan and a couple of dyed Chinese hair strands. But most of it is a man made fiber that usually only last 30-90 days and then it begins to look dry and brittle. It will start looking drastically different not blending with your natural hair. This hair is not made to last longer than 60 days because it is made to be cheap enough to be affordable, but a cheap enough quality to have you right back buying more. This type of hair is a revolving door of wasted time and money. Take a second and look at the money factor
Beauty Supply Hair
1. 1 package of Blonde 4 oz $112 X 2 = $224 X 4 (spent every 3 months) = Total $896
2. European Human Hair (Grade 3A) 4 oz $299 X 2 (last for longer than 1 year if properly cared for by a licensed stylist) = Total $598 * additional 2-4 oz may need to be purchased to accommodate style changes. Including the additional purchase of 4 oz of hair which will give you a total of 12 oz = Total $897
Now that you see where your money is going let’s look at the quality factor. Human hair is just that hair that has been collected from a live donor so it feels, looks, moves just like real hair. If you ever have noticed that hair from the beauty supply does not move like human hair because the fibers are heavier than natural hair. This creates a flat hairstyle after a while. Yes, you can curl it but when you jump or move naturally does it move like your natural hair? Probably not, and this is a dead give away that is not your hair.