Hair Extension Grade

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

By Lisa

Bonjour, I was asked by a good friend of mine to contribute to the blog. So I think it is time to debunk some of the rumors of the infamous grading system with the human hair extension world? First let me make sure we outline the topics so we don’t get lost:

1. Where did it start?
2. Hair Grade
3. Quality Hair

So I will take you back to about 10 years ago, remember when Indian was the newest and best hair. Well, let me jog your memory a little more around that time is when you first heard the term 3A-5A. That was when someone said that was the best. Then every couple of years after the number of A’s kept growing. But sometimes the quality still seemed the same. Did you ever have the feeling that the hair suppliers came up with this system just to hike the price up without really explaining why? Also, if that wasn’t enough you had people singing the Virgin Remi (Remy Episode 118 : What is Remy Hair) song.

We will talk about the 3 most commonly used different grading systems. Let me make this clear, no certified board of cosmetology or manufacture controls the validity of this ever-changing grading system. So let’s try and make some sense of this craziness. The first will be Grades using A to describe the amount of premium hair strands being used in the 3.5-4 ounces of hair.

Grade A: 100% human remy hair single drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, less than 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AA: 100% human remy hair 50% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAA: 100% human remy hair 60% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 60% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAA+: 100% human remy hair 75% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 75% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAAA+: 100% human remy hair 90% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, the majority of the hairs will measure 18″.

• Debunk: this version seems to closely mirror the same explanation given for Single Drawn hair (Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn). Also not all hair harvested from donors is Remy (Remi) Hair.

Now let’s discuss the infamous number system. This is similar to the ranking above. Because let’s be honest when you order hair you would walk in to your hair store or beauty supply and tell the sales clerk that you want quality AAAAAAAA+, so 8A is the same as the written out version. But when you hear 8A you typically associate it towards the quality and luster of the hair. But this system is normally the way most suppliers/retailers grade the integrity of the hair. It is an easier way for the customers to judge the quality of what you are getting and paying for.
This s a hair grade chart:


hair grade chart photo hair grade rubix_zpsyvefqlsp.jpg

  •  Debunk a talented well-trained master colorist can dye just about any type of human hair. Correct 4A hair is considered low quality for a number of reasons, but the main factors are due to the health of the donor, and manufactures sourcing technique. Yes, all hair has different lifespans anywhere from 90 days to 5+ years. This is due to the amount of coloring, perming, cutting, and thermal styling. With proper care and conditioning your investment can last for years, if the quality of the hair is high. Lower grade hair is good when matching Yaki texture hair, or if you need the hair for a shorter time frame (3 months).

 photo 2b6aff1c-b006-447e-943a-9ba3f9951d0f_zpsgg2w4vpd.jpg

Most wholesalers use a combination of the number / letter system (i.e. 7A, 8A, 10A, etc.) or another system such as low grade, mid-grade, best or high-grade. They typically will group the hair into these categories. At the end of the day, find a reputable seller that has consistence with providing quality hair.

quality hair photo how-to-choose-best-human-hair-extensions_zpswrfunwnc.jpg

Single Drawn vs Double Drawn

Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn Hair?

Episode 125: What is Double Drawn Hair?

By Rico


Helloo Ladies,

It has been a long time. Well I would like to discuss what is Single Drawn Hair Vs. Double Drawn Hair. I recently had this discussion with a client who had purchased some loose hair from AEOMH. She was not aware of the term Single drawn vs. double drawn. She wanted to know why weren’t all the hairs the exact same length. I explained that traditionally single drawn hair is normally fuller toward the weft or tip. This is how our natural hair grows, allowing for a more natural finish towards the ends of the hair. A normal 3.5-4 ounces of hair will be a mix of the length you desire (i.e. 8”, 10”, 12”, 16”, 18”, etc.) which would be 50% 22” and then a 50% mix of 16” and 18”. Thus is allowing for that natural finish that gradually tapers off. Now let me let you in on a little secret, single drawn hair is cheaper. But can made to appear just as full as double drawn hair by trimming it up towards the fuller part (sometimes ¼ to ½ of an inch approximately). This hair is great if loads of volume is not a priority. I am not saying it can’t be achieved with the help of a great mouse (Wella, Redken) and a great volume hairspray like Redken Triple Take 32 high hold.doublele drawn photo Single-Drawn-vs-Double-Drawn_zpsbfx88fm7.jpg

Now, here comes the crash course in understanding the term double drawn. When the hair is laid out for measuring after the hacking, the hair undergoes an additional process before the weft can be sewn. The shorter hairs are removed by hand and not by a sorting machine. The alternative is to cut the human hair at the ends, so that the fullness remains the same from the top to end and then the hair is sewn into the weft. This significantly increases the volume of the hair extensions and provides for a fuller body, and more glamorous appearance of the hair extensions.

 photo double drawn extension_zpsgp9iigvo.jpg

At the end of day let’s be honest about 2 things. #1 would be the budge you are working with. This is an investment and should have a considerable amount of thought and research, put into the decision. #2 would be finding a picture of the desired style and either consulting a licenses stylist for a recommendation on how to achieve a finished look. The best advice I can give is to buy quality hair from a source you have dealt with or has decent feedback from their buyers. Many sellers are passing off human hair that is mixed and won’t hold up.








Episode 114: What Is Keratin?

What Is Keratin

By Rebecca

Hi, my name is Rebecca and I will be explaining exactly what is keratin. This is how Webster’s defines keratin:

noun: keratin; plural noun: keratins
a fibrous protein forming the main structural constituent of hair, feathers, hoofs, claws, horns, etc.

Keratin is a strong protein that is a major key component in forming skin, hair, nails, hooves, horns, and teeth. Amino acids combine to form a bond like a barrier. Keratin can be hard, like a horses hooves, or soft, as is the case with skin. If the dead cells are kept in good condition, they will serve as an insulating layer to protect the new tissue that is forming below them.

Hair and nails on humans especially tend to become dry and brittle, because the dead keratin is being pushed to great lengths. Eating foods like gelatin (can be found in foods such as jello, yogurt, gummie snacks, gummie vitamins) can help with the elasticity found in your hair and nails. By keeping hair and nails moist and hydrated, they can be grown out while still remaining healthy. In general, the thicker the layer of keratin, the healthier the hair or nail is, because the dead cells outside protect the living cells at the core. Keeping the external layer moisturized will also keep it healthy and prevent cracking and splitting, whether it is forming the hooves of a horse of the skin of a human.

Now with this background knowledge of what keratin is and how it works. So now this should shed some light on the latest crazy influx of keratin and how you can find it in everything from vitamins to the latest hair treatments and products. Please understand that everybody has a different tolerance to added keratin into there system and should introduce anything new gradually, to take notice of how it is effecting you.

keratin hair protein photo episode113keratin_zpsb2664f8d.jpg

Sources cited:


Episode 110 : Hair Brush School 101


Episode 110 : Hair Brush School 101

By Rico

Hi ladies and gents, we will be going over the do’s of hair bush school 101 which is important for creating that perfect style. As you know from Episode 109 : How to use a diffuser 101 I am a serial offender of Pinterest. I have been asked alot over the years about which hair brush do I need to reproduce a particular hair style. And explaining that all hair brushes are designed to do a different thing sometimes can be a hard sell. So I found another article from the ladies at The beauty department called hair brush school explaining which does a really good job at explaining how using the right hair brush can help achieve the right hair style. Using a specific hair brush can either help with detangling or assist with smoothing for that extra sleek look. Word to the wise, one hair brush can be ok but understanding that your tools can make the look is worth a million dollars when you step out looking right and feeling good.


 photo brushschool_zpsea95c458.jpg


Episode 105: How to flat Iron or straighten all hair types


Episode 105: How to flat Iron or straightener all hair types
By Rico

Hello everybody! I know that trying to achieve that salon blowout or flat iron is enough to grab the whole bottle of Stella Rosa and find your best hat and say screw it! But I will walk you through how to achieve that smooth and silky flat iron with out frying your hair follicle and looking like an 80’s music video vixen.

1. Please understand that you cannot achieve a silky look with dirty hair. Please take the time to clean your hair and deep condition your hair to give a healthy layer of protectant to protect the hair cuticle. I would suggest Joico Smooth Cure or whatever sulfate free shampoo conditioner you prefer.
2. Proceed to blowing out your wet hair in sections to achieve a smooth surface to begin the flat iron process.
3. Now grab a serum or a protectant this creates a layer on the hair to assist in straightening it and creating a thermal bond that can keep lock in the heat from the flat iron in place to have a smooth finish.
4. Now just because your flat iron or hair straighter can get to and achieve a heat of 450 degrees does not mean that a daily usage of this high heat won’t damage the hair follicles. It can dry out the inside of the hair, which will start to be come unruly and dry to the touch. So thin or fine hair should be set to 150 – 200 degrees wavy or thicker hair should be around 200 – 300 degrees thick and coarse hair should be around 300-400 for an initial flat iron. For touch ups start off with 150 to 200 depending on your level of straightening and thickness.
5. Now a small flat iron 1’ to 2’ inches will allow you more styling and straightening control. So take small sections of hair and start at the scalp and slowly pass downward to the ends of the hair.
6. Now keep your hair in four sections starting in the back.
7. Do not spray or rub any oil product in hair before using the flat iron. The oils weigh down the hair and make it stringy instead of bouncy and vibrant.
8. Separate the sections no wider then the width of your flat iron. You do not want to have too much hair then you are not allowing the heat to properly straighten each strand.
9. Slowly make your way around your hair and began to flatten into your desired style.
10. To complete the style you can take a dime size amount of serum or spray a holding spray to control your style.

Now that it is all over looking at that hair shiny and bouncy makes it all worth it. Hey I say it’s 5 p.m. somewhere open that bottle and have a go.