Single Drawn vs Double Drawn

Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn Hair?

Episode 125: What is Double Drawn Hair?

By Rico

 

Helloo Ladies,

It has been a long time. Well I would like to discuss what is Single Drawn Hair Vs. Double Drawn Hair. I recently had this discussion with a client who had purchased some loose hair from AEOMH. She was not aware of the term Single drawn vs. double drawn. She wanted to know why weren’t all the hairs the exact same length. I explained that traditionally single drawn hair is normally fuller toward the weft or tip. This is how our natural hair grows, allowing for a more natural finish towards the ends of the hair. A normal 3.5-4 ounces of hair will be a mix of the length you desire (i.e. 8”, 10”, 12”, 16”, 18”, etc.) which would be 50% 22” and then a 50% mix of 16” and 18”. Thus is allowing for that natural finish that gradually tapers off. Now let me let you in on a little secret, single drawn hair is cheaper. But can made to appear just as full as double drawn hair by trimming it up towards the fuller part (sometimes ¼ to ½ of an inch approximately). This hair is great if loads of volume is not a priority. I am not saying it can’t be achieved with the help of a great mouse (Wella, Redken) and a great volume hairspray like Redken Triple Take 32 high hold.doublele drawn photo Single-Drawn-vs-Double-Drawn_zpsbfx88fm7.jpg

Now, here comes the crash course in understanding the term double drawn. When the hair is laid out for measuring after the hacking, the hair undergoes an additional process before the weft can be sewn. The shorter hairs are removed by hand and not by a sorting machine. The alternative is to cut the human hair at the ends, so that the fullness remains the same from the top to end and then the hair is sewn into the weft. This significantly increases the volume of the hair extensions and provides for a fuller body, and more glamorous appearance of the hair extensions.

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At the end of day let’s be honest about 2 things. #1 would be the budge you are working with. This is an investment and should have a considerable amount of thought and research, put into the decision. #2 would be finding a picture of the desired style and either consulting a licenses stylist for a recommendation on how to achieve a finished look. The best advice I can give is to buy quality hair from a source you have dealt with or has decent feedback from their buyers. Many sellers are passing off human hair that is mixed and won’t hold up.

Rico

 

 

 

 

 

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italian keratin glue pellet fusion

Episode 120 : What Is Keratin Glue ?

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Episode 120: What Is Keratin Glue?

By Trish

I wanted to briefly explain what is keratin glue? A subject that is not really talked about to often, because let’s be honest once the hair extension is in; you feel beautiful so who cares right. But I want to explain what is in this keratin glue substance you are using to attach your hair extensions to your hair. Most of you are familiar with the glue stick method. This method is used with a glue gun (nothing special typical arts and craft type), which is used for most installations. Also you have another type of glue that comes in small little pellets that can also used with a melting pot.

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The glue it’s self is a polyamide, which is a macromolecule (is a very large molecule commonly created by polymerization of a smaller subunits) with repeating units linked by amide bonds. This is one of the components that creates a bond that is able to be molded and shaped when heated with a low-temperature glue gun operate at approximately 120 °C (248 °F) and are well suited for hair extension bonding installations.

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Keratin glue is somewhat of a new excitement to the mainstream beauty arena. If you are interested in learning about what is keratin check out this tutorial Episode 114: What Is Keratin? by Rebecca. This will outline the hype surrounding Keratin. Although some in the industry strongly debate and question if there are actual traces of Keratin in the glue whatever properties of the glue are slightly different than the normal clear glue. Here is the first point the break down of the regular glue when exposed to water or oil products slowly breakdown the bonding structure of the glue. The Italian Keratin glue has a stronger lasting hold that stands up to oil and water base products.

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Now if you don’t want to spend the money just yet on this new wonder keratin glue. I have seen stylist melt down glue pellets and add keratin protein powder to the glue as an additive. Now here is my first warning if you failed chemistry then forget this whole paragraph because more than likely you’re going to have an weird science type of fallout. Oh wow, I think I’m showing my age annnyway. If you are not comfortable mixing something like color, it is safe to just buy it already mixed to try.

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The best remover for the keratin glue or regular glue would be something like Seabreeze or 91% Isopropyl Alcohol will breakdown the glue. At this point moisten the glue surrounding the hair, put the hair in-between your thumb and forefinger and press and apply pressure. Begin applying pressure to the area that has the glue on it. Procced by rolling the area back and forth until you start to see the glue crumble into pices. At this point slowly and gently pick the pices of crumbled glue out of the hair. Once all glue has been removed slowly comb from root to tip to make sure that all glue areas have been properly removed. I hope this has answered some questions.

Trish

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Episode 102: How to choose a ph level shampoo?

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Episode 102: How to choose a Ph level shampoo?

By Rico

Let’s attack the number one subject how do you pick the right Ph level shampoo for your hair or hair extensions? Understanding what kind of hair you have? Most Asian, Indian, and Peruvian hair types are naturally straight or slightly wavy hair types. Those hair types do not require to many hair products to maintain their natural luster and shine. In a nutshell what your natural hair may need is something totally different from what your hair extensions or wigs require to maintain shine and luster.

The acronym PH stands for potential hydrogen. The PH level is a reference to how many hydrogen ions are present in a substance. The PH level is used to indicate how much alkaline is in a substance or how acidic the substance is. Varying pH levels in shampoos have different effects on diffeerent hair types.

Most Asian, Indian, and Peruvian hair responds better to a low PH level shampoo. A good Ph level in a shampoo level is measured at a level 7 or below. Is the counter effect to prevent dull, dry brittle lifeless hair. It also preserves color treatments without stripping the shine off of the hair and helps them last a lot longer. Acidic shampoos also help add additional shine and maintain moisture without overly coating the hair and making it appear dull.

Top 5 picks

AG Hair Cosmetics Moisture & Shine Fast Food (sulfate-free) Ph 5

Joico Body Luxe Thickening PH 4.5

Kenra Clarifying Shampoo PH 4.5

Davines Well Being De Stress Muesli & Yogurt Shampoo PH 5.5

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor PH 4.5

List of shampoos with low PH levels

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor pH 4.5-5.5

Tresemme Antibreakage = 5.40

White Rain Extra Body = 5.35

Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose Conditioner = 5

Tresemme Naturals Moisturizing Conditioner = 5

Luster’s S-Curl Activator and Moisturizer = 5.5

Suave Humectant Conditioner = 4.5

ORS replenishing 5

Yes to Cucumbers Color care leave-in 5

Yes to Carrots pampering hair mud 5

Kiss My Face Whenever Shampoo: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Conditioner: btwn 4.0 & 5.0

Aubrey Organics Honey suckle Rose Conditioner: btwn 5.0 & 6.0

Oyin handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Jessicurl Too Shea Extra Moisturizing Conditioner: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Jessicurl Aloeba Daily Conditioner: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Curls Curly Q’s Coconut Dream Moisturizing Conditioner: 5.0

Millscreek Botanicals Biotin Cond.: btwn 5.0 & 6.0

Aphogee Keratin 2 Min Reconstructor: btwn 5.0 & 6.0

Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier 4.5

Giovanni Smooth as Silk Shampoo is 6

Giovanni Deep Moisturizer Conditioner is 5.5

Ion Clarifying Shampoo 5.5

Avalon Organics Moisturizing Shampoo 5

Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner 4.5 or 5

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