Hair Extension Grade

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

By Lisa

Bonjour, I was asked by a good friend of mine to contribute to the blog. So I think it is time to debunk some of the rumors of the infamous grading system with the human hair extension world? First let me make sure we outline the topics so we don’t get lost:

1. Where did it start?
2. Hair Grade
3. Quality Hair

So I will take you back to about 10 years ago, remember when Indian was the newest and best hair. Well, let me jog your memory a little more around that time is when you first heard the term 3A-5A. That was when someone said that was the best. Then every couple of years after the number of A’s kept growing. But sometimes the quality still seemed the same. Did you ever have the feeling that the hair suppliers came up with this system just to hike the price up without really explaining why? Also, if that wasn’t enough you had people singing the Virgin Remi (Remy Episode 118 : What is Remy Hair) song.

We will talk about the 3 most commonly used different grading systems. Let me make this clear, no certified board of cosmetology or manufacture controls the validity of this ever-changing grading system. So let’s try and make some sense of this craziness. The first will be Grades using A to describe the amount of premium hair strands being used in the 3.5-4 ounces of hair.

Grade A: 100% human remy hair single drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, less than 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AA: 100% human remy hair 50% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAA: 100% human remy hair 60% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 60% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAA+: 100% human remy hair 75% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 75% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAAA+: 100% human remy hair 90% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, the majority of the hairs will measure 18″.

• Debunk: this version seems to closely mirror the same explanation given for Single Drawn hair (Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn). Also not all hair harvested from donors is Remy (Remi) Hair.

Now let’s discuss the infamous number system. This is similar to the ranking above. Because let’s be honest when you order hair you would walk in to your hair store or beauty supply and tell the sales clerk that you want quality AAAAAAAA+, so 8A is the same as the written out version. But when you hear 8A you typically associate it towards the quality and luster of the hair. But this system is normally the way most suppliers/retailers grade the integrity of the hair. It is an easier way for the customers to judge the quality of what you are getting and paying for.
This s a hair grade chart:

 

hair grade chart photo hair grade rubix_zpsyvefqlsp.jpg

  •  Debunk a talented well-trained master colorist can dye just about any type of human hair. Correct 4A hair is considered low quality for a number of reasons, but the main factors are due to the health of the donor, and manufactures sourcing technique. Yes, all hair has different lifespans anywhere from 90 days to 5+ years. This is due to the amount of coloring, perming, cutting, and thermal styling. With proper care and conditioning your investment can last for years, if the quality of the hair is high. Lower grade hair is good when matching Yaki texture hair, or if you need the hair for a shorter time frame (3 months).

 photo 2b6aff1c-b006-447e-943a-9ba3f9951d0f_zpsgg2w4vpd.jpg

Most wholesalers use a combination of the number / letter system (i.e. 7A, 8A, 10A, etc.) or another system such as low grade, mid-grade, best or high-grade. They typically will group the hair into these categories. At the end of the day, find a reputable seller that has consistence with providing quality hair.

quality hair photo how-to-choose-best-human-hair-extensions_zpswrfunwnc.jpg

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Single Drawn vs Double Drawn

Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn Hair?

Episode 125: What is Double Drawn Hair?

By Rico

 

Helloo Ladies,

It has been a long time. Well I would like to discuss what is Single Drawn Hair Vs. Double Drawn Hair. I recently had this discussion with a client who had purchased some loose hair from AEOMH. She was not aware of the term Single drawn vs. double drawn. She wanted to know why weren’t all the hairs the exact same length. I explained that traditionally single drawn hair is normally fuller toward the weft or tip. This is how our natural hair grows, allowing for a more natural finish towards the ends of the hair. A normal 3.5-4 ounces of hair will be a mix of the length you desire (i.e. 8”, 10”, 12”, 16”, 18”, etc.) which would be 50% 22” and then a 50% mix of 16” and 18”. Thus is allowing for that natural finish that gradually tapers off. Now let me let you in on a little secret, single drawn hair is cheaper. But can made to appear just as full as double drawn hair by trimming it up towards the fuller part (sometimes ¼ to ½ of an inch approximately). This hair is great if loads of volume is not a priority. I am not saying it can’t be achieved with the help of a great mouse (Wella, Redken) and a great volume hairspray like Redken Triple Take 32 high hold.doublele drawn photo Single-Drawn-vs-Double-Drawn_zpsbfx88fm7.jpg

Now, here comes the crash course in understanding the term double drawn. When the hair is laid out for measuring after the hacking, the hair undergoes an additional process before the weft can be sewn. The shorter hairs are removed by hand and not by a sorting machine. The alternative is to cut the human hair at the ends, so that the fullness remains the same from the top to end and then the hair is sewn into the weft. This significantly increases the volume of the hair extensions and provides for a fuller body, and more glamorous appearance of the hair extensions.

 photo double drawn extension_zpsgp9iigvo.jpg

At the end of day let’s be honest about 2 things. #1 would be the budge you are working with. This is an investment and should have a considerable amount of thought and research, put into the decision. #2 would be finding a picture of the desired style and either consulting a licenses stylist for a recommendation on how to achieve a finished look. The best advice I can give is to buy quality hair from a source you have dealt with or has decent feedback from their buyers. Many sellers are passing off human hair that is mixed and won’t hold up.

Rico

 

 

 

 

 

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