Hair Extension Grade

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

By Lisa

Bonjour, I was asked by a good friend of mine to contribute to the blog. So I think it is time to debunk some of the rumors of the infamous grading system with the human hair extension world? First let me make sure we outline the topics so we don’t get lost:

1. Where did it start?
2. Hair Grade
3. Quality Hair

So I will take you back to about 10 years ago, remember when Indian was the newest and best hair. Well, let me jog your memory a little more around that time is when you first heard the term 3A-5A. That was when someone said that was the best. Then every couple of years after the number of A’s kept growing. But sometimes the quality still seemed the same. Did you ever have the feeling that the hair suppliers came up with this system just to hike the price up without really explaining why? Also, if that wasn’t enough you had people singing the Virgin Remi (Remy Episode 118 : What is Remy Hair) song.

We will talk about the 3 most commonly used different grading systems. Let me make this clear, no certified board of cosmetology or manufacture controls the validity of this ever-changing grading system. So let’s try and make some sense of this craziness. The first will be Grades using A to describe the amount of premium hair strands being used in the 3.5-4 ounces of hair.

Grade A: 100% human remy hair single drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, less than 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AA: 100% human remy hair 50% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAA: 100% human remy hair 60% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 60% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAA+: 100% human remy hair 75% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 75% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAAA+: 100% human remy hair 90% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, the majority of the hairs will measure 18″.

• Debunk: this version seems to closely mirror the same explanation given for Single Drawn hair (Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn). Also not all hair harvested from donors is Remy (Remi) Hair.

Now let’s discuss the infamous number system. This is similar to the ranking above. Because let’s be honest when you order hair you would walk in to your hair store or beauty supply and tell the sales clerk that you want quality AAAAAAAA+, so 8A is the same as the written out version. But when you hear 8A you typically associate it towards the quality and luster of the hair. But this system is normally the way most suppliers/retailers grade the integrity of the hair. It is an easier way for the customers to judge the quality of what you are getting and paying for.
This s a hair grade chart:

 

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  •  Debunk a talented well-trained master colorist can dye just about any type of human hair. Correct 4A hair is considered low quality for a number of reasons, but the main factors are due to the health of the donor, and manufactures sourcing technique. Yes, all hair has different lifespans anywhere from 90 days to 5+ years. This is due to the amount of coloring, perming, cutting, and thermal styling. With proper care and conditioning your investment can last for years, if the quality of the hair is high. Lower grade hair is good when matching Yaki texture hair, or if you need the hair for a shorter time frame (3 months).

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Most wholesalers use a combination of the number / letter system (i.e. 7A, 8A, 10A, etc.) or another system such as low grade, mid-grade, best or high-grade. They typically will group the hair into these categories. At the end of the day, find a reputable seller that has consistence with providing quality hair.

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Single Drawn vs Double Drawn

Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn Hair?

Episode 125: What is Double Drawn Hair?

By Rico

 

Helloo Ladies,

It has been a long time. Well I would like to discuss what is Single Drawn Hair Vs. Double Drawn Hair. I recently had this discussion with a client who had purchased some loose hair from AEOMH. She was not aware of the term Single drawn vs. double drawn. She wanted to know why weren’t all the hairs the exact same length. I explained that traditionally single drawn hair is normally fuller toward the weft or tip. This is how our natural hair grows, allowing for a more natural finish towards the ends of the hair. A normal 3.5-4 ounces of hair will be a mix of the length you desire (i.e. 8”, 10”, 12”, 16”, 18”, etc.) which would be 50% 22” and then a 50% mix of 16” and 18”. Thus is allowing for that natural finish that gradually tapers off. Now let me let you in on a little secret, single drawn hair is cheaper. But can made to appear just as full as double drawn hair by trimming it up towards the fuller part (sometimes ¼ to ½ of an inch approximately). This hair is great if loads of volume is not a priority. I am not saying it can’t be achieved with the help of a great mouse (Wella, Redken) and a great volume hairspray like Redken Triple Take 32 high hold.doublele drawn photo Single-Drawn-vs-Double-Drawn_zpsbfx88fm7.jpg

Now, here comes the crash course in understanding the term double drawn. When the hair is laid out for measuring after the hacking, the hair undergoes an additional process before the weft can be sewn. The shorter hairs are removed by hand and not by a sorting machine. The alternative is to cut the human hair at the ends, so that the fullness remains the same from the top to end and then the hair is sewn into the weft. This significantly increases the volume of the hair extensions and provides for a fuller body, and more glamorous appearance of the hair extensions.

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At the end of day let’s be honest about 2 things. #1 would be the budge you are working with. This is an investment and should have a considerable amount of thought and research, put into the decision. #2 would be finding a picture of the desired style and either consulting a licenses stylist for a recommendation on how to achieve a finished look. The best advice I can give is to buy quality hair from a source you have dealt with or has decent feedback from their buyers. Many sellers are passing off human hair that is mixed and won’t hold up.

Rico

 

 

 

 

 

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italian keratin glue pellet fusion

Episode 120 : What Is Keratin Glue ?

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Episode 120: What Is Keratin Glue?

By Trish

I wanted to briefly explain what is keratin glue? A subject that is not really talked about to often, because let’s be honest once the hair extension is in; you feel beautiful so who cares right. But I want to explain what is in this keratin glue substance you are using to attach your hair extensions to your hair. Most of you are familiar with the glue stick method. This method is used with a glue gun (nothing special typical arts and craft type), which is used for most installations. Also you have another type of glue that comes in small little pellets that can also used with a melting pot.

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The glue it’s self is a polyamide, which is a macromolecule (is a very large molecule commonly created by polymerization of a smaller subunits) with repeating units linked by amide bonds. This is one of the components that creates a bond that is able to be molded and shaped when heated with a low-temperature glue gun operate at approximately 120 °C (248 °F) and are well suited for hair extension bonding installations.

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Keratin glue is somewhat of a new excitement to the mainstream beauty arena. If you are interested in learning about what is keratin check out this tutorial Episode 114: What Is Keratin? by Rebecca. This will outline the hype surrounding Keratin. Although some in the industry strongly debate and question if there are actual traces of Keratin in the glue whatever properties of the glue are slightly different than the normal clear glue. Here is the first point the break down of the regular glue when exposed to water or oil products slowly breakdown the bonding structure of the glue. The Italian Keratin glue has a stronger lasting hold that stands up to oil and water base products.

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Now if you don’t want to spend the money just yet on this new wonder keratin glue. I have seen stylist melt down glue pellets and add keratin protein powder to the glue as an additive. Now here is my first warning if you failed chemistry then forget this whole paragraph because more than likely you’re going to have an weird science type of fallout. Oh wow, I think I’m showing my age annnyway. If you are not comfortable mixing something like color, it is safe to just buy it already mixed to try.

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The best remover for the keratin glue or regular glue would be something like Seabreeze or 91% Isopropyl Alcohol will breakdown the glue. At this point moisten the glue surrounding the hair, put the hair in-between your thumb and forefinger and press and apply pressure. Begin applying pressure to the area that has the glue on it. Procced by rolling the area back and forth until you start to see the glue crumble into pices. At this point slowly and gently pick the pices of crumbled glue out of the hair. Once all glue has been removed slowly comb from root to tip to make sure that all glue areas have been properly removed. I hope this has answered some questions.

Trish

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synthetic hair vs. human hair

Episode 115 : Know Your Hair Extension Synthetic Hair VS. Human Hair?

synthetic hair vs. human hair

human hair vs. synthetic hair

Episode 115 : Know Your Hair Extension Synthetic Hair VS. Human Hair!!

By Morgan

Heyyyy, I am Ms. Morgan! I will be contributing an article about synthetic fiber hair extensions being passed off as 100% human hair extensions in beauty supply stores. This is an epidemic sweeping the hair extension world and causing confusion to customers wondering why is this hair matting up and shedding. You may ask what is going on? It is women of all nationalities are being mislead thinking you are buying 100% human hair. Sorry for the time lost and confusion, lost money. Let me walk you through this educational glossary of keyword terms you should understand when you are buying hair.

Fiber Glossary

• Human Hair – Collected from a host (person), human hair can be curled, dyed, permed (relaxer), or styled just like your own hair. While it’s the most expensive hair used for hair extensions, it looks completely natural.

• Please understand that Chinese hair is one of the cheapest and most widely mislead hair types. Human hair can be dyed, permed (relaxer) to resemble a specific curl or kinky yaki texture. The con this hair will shed, matte, tangle after one wash. Resulting in hundreds of dollars being wasted.

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• Toyokalon® – Toyokalon brand fiber is more expensive than synthetic and Kanekalon, Toyokalon feels and looks closest to human hair. It has more sheen and tends to be silkier in texture than the Kanekalon and synthetic fiber. Like most man-made fibers used in hair extensions, Toyokalon can be heat styled (low heat blow dryer or a flat iron up to 100 degrees).

• An example of this fiber is widely used in wigs and mixed with human hair because it can be mass-produced.

• These fibers are constantly being mixed with human hair. This is done to pass off the fiber as more expensive human hair (this is more expensive because it is being grown by a human host)

• This hair typically only last for 14 – 30 days with daily styling being conducted. While constantly appearing dull everyday due to the scalps natural oils and environmental factors.

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• Kanekalon® – Kanekalon brand sythetic fiber is probably the most common of its kind, and is made from a material called Modacrylic. This fiber is flame retardant, which means that braids can be finished by burning the ends.

• This hair is most used for wigs and braided hairstyles.

• There are some hairpieces that can be used for shows or special occasion typically one use style.

• When dipped in boiling water and air dried this hair can be used with a hair dryer and with a low temperature curling iron

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• Synthetic – The least expensive synthetic fiber used for hair extensions is made from Polypropylene. This fiber is non-flame retardant, which means it should NEVER be exposed to heat, either to seal it or style it. One way to finish off the braid is to use an elastic band.

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Now that we have established some key terms when buying hair let’s have a heart to heart. First know what human hair looks like and feels like. Synthetic fiber hair will appear super shiny waxy. That is due to the silicone coating used to create clear coat sheen. Please don’t let the sales associates at the beauty supply sell you on a product that appears to good to be true.

Most hair that is packaged in a mass produced packaging, will more than likely be a mix of 2-7% of actual human hair. The synthetic fibers that are mixed in with the actual human hair are a combination of high heat fibers. For a manufacture to put human hair on the label it only has to actually contain a small amount of actual human hair.

This part of the beauty industry does not have a quality control department that can let consumers know which products are misleading or conducting fraudulent advertising. We as the consumer have to know about the products that we are buying. Some of these beauty supply store associates will start to sound like used car salesman. That is because as soon as you exit their establishments the sale is final, and you are stuck with an inferior product.

The sad part is most women will complain about the service and the quality of the product, but will be right back at the same place buying the same item. I understand that we as women have to look our best with sometimes limited resources, but we do not have settle for less than the best. I have heard of the bad quality hair, but find it amazing that the same people are still walking around with road kill on their head like a Sunday church hat. I hope this information has provided some insight to this sad epidemic. I know that it is hard but we must demand more and stick to it.

XOXOXO
Morgan

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vitamins for hair growth

Episode 113 : What Vitamins Help Grow Hair ?

vitamins for hair growth

What vitamins are best for hair growth?

Episode 113: What Vitamins Help Grow Hair ?

By Akira

Hey everybody! We will be talking about what are the best vitamins for hair growth. Now I had mentioned in “Episode 112: Why Should You Trim Your Hair!” I am currently taking Spring Valley Biotin 10,000 mcg with Keratin 100 mg (Spring Valley Biotin 10,000 mcg with Keratin 100 mg), Episode 113: What Vitamins Help Grow Hair Now let me address a common misconception that is rarely addressed but is the reason most people stop there vitamin regiment. I have heard this statement so many times “I didn’t notice any difference so I stopped taking them”. The first question I normally ask when this is the answer, “O um about a week to a month” I reply that is not enough time for you to grow even a ½ inch to really make a sound assessment. Our generation is pledged with this instant gratification need. Let me make this clear what you intake into your system can become a huge factor as to why your hair growth is slow. You cannot take vitamins and consume large amounts of processed foods and use hair products heavy with man made chemicals and expect to see healthy hair sprout out. These factors slow the body’s natural system.

Now for your body to really take advantages of the vitamins being taken you need to regulate your diet so that the body will be able to absorb and produce healthy skin, nails, and hair. I would like to give you fair warning the vitamins effect all the hair on your body, yes that’s right ALL of the hair on your body will began to grow at a faster rate. So make a conscious choice of yes I can accept this factor because I want shinier longer hair. Now that I have provided some overall information about how to get the most out of the vitamins that you want to take. I will list vitamins that are great for hair growth and what they do.

    List of Vitamins that Promote Hair Growth

Iron: Women typically aging from 18-45 or those who don’t eat a lot of red meat tend to be deficient in iron. Even those who aren’t anemic can also have low iron levels. Iron carries oxygen to hair and promotes growth. However, it is very important to discuss with your physician about how much iron (or any mineral) you should take every day. Iron-rich foods include, egg yolks, lentils, spinach and chicken.

Vitamin D: This is important for hair follicle cycling, especially for individuals who live in northern parts of the United States and European countries where sunlight is limited. A supplement is also prescribed as a treatment for atopic dermatitis like eczema. Salmon, mushroom, beef liver and grains are great alternative sources of vitamin D.

Zinc: Heavy exercisers and sweaters tend to lose significant amounts of zinc. To regain this hair growth mineral, consume 15-30mg daily or munch on high-zinc foods like lamb, turkey, pumpkin seeds and chocolate.

B-complex Vitamins: Biotin, niacin and cobalamin are among the most popular B-complex vitamins that help restore shine and thickness to strands. Load up on whole grains, eggs, avocados and legumes, as they are some of the best food sources for B-complex vitamins. Some even believe that biotin can slow down age-related graying.*

Biotin

One of the most commonly known vitamins to promote strong hair is biotin, a B-complex vitamin that is sometimes referred to as Vitamin H. Biotin promotes healthy hair by increasing the hair’s elasticity and protects against dryness, which also helps prevent breakage.*

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is a commonly known antioxidant also known as retinol. Its function is mainly to promote eye health*; however, it’s also widely used as a means to promote healthy hair. Vitamin A helps to produce healthy sebum, an oily substance secreted by the scalp, which keeps hair from drying out and breaking off.* In addition, Vitamin A fights free radicals that weigh your hair down.*

Vitamin A is found in the following foods:
• Cod liver oil
• Krill oil
• Carrots
• Spinach
• Peaches

While Vitamin A is essential to healthy hair, you must exercise caution, as too much Vitamin A can lead to toxicity and can actually result in the opposite effect – hair loss.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E, an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals,* is often referred to as the “good skin” vitamin,* but its assistive properties go far beyond the skin. Vitamin E also helps the body’s blood circulation by increasing oxygen uptake, which in turn aids the body in producing new hair.* In addition, some believe that Vitamin E has an affect on the body’s immune function, further increasing it’s potential to reduce hair loss risk.* It can be taken by mouth, applied topically or can be

found in the following foods:
• Beans
• Soybeans
• Leafy greens
• Wheatgerm oil
• Nuts
.

Pantothenic Acid

Pantothenic acid, also called Vitamin B5, isn’t a commonly known vitamin, but is highly effective in the prevention of graying due to aging. In addition, it can help reduce the natural loss of hair due to aging.* Pantothenic acid is believed to help strengthen hair follicles and their cells, allowing them to function properly. In addition, pantothenic acid also helps your scalp get rid of dead skin, clearing the way for new growth to occur.
Pantothenic acid can be found in many Vitamin B complex vitamins, but can also be found in various foods, such as whole grains and eggs.

Inositol

The last vitamin that is important for healthy hair is Inositol. Inositol is, unofficially, grouped into the Vitamin B group of vitamins. It’s certainly not a commonly known vitamin, but is responsible for a number of support functions within the body.

Inositol aids in the health of cell membranes, particularly those in the eyes, intestines, brain, and bone marrow.* However, one of the most recent findings show that men who took an extra dose of inositol daily reported that their hair loss had improved, with less hair falling out.

While Inositol can be produced by the body through the natural process of breaking down glucose, it can also be found in the following foods:

• Beans
• Citrus fruits and cantaloupe
• Whole grain breads
• Brewer’s yeast

Naturally, vitamin supplementation alone will never take the place of a healthy, balanced diet. But with proper supplements, you can combat hair loss and slow down premature graying of the hair all while growing old gracefully. Just remember to check with your health care professional before adding any supplements to your diet.

Source cited: www.smartypantsvitamins.com
www.huffingtonpost.com

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