Hair Extension Grade

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

Episode 126 : What is the deal with hair extension grades?

By Lisa

Bonjour, I was asked by a good friend of mine to contribute to the blog. So I think it is time to debunk some of the rumors of the infamous grading system with the human hair extension world? First let me make sure we outline the topics so we don’t get lost:

1. Where did it start?
2. Hair Grade
3. Quality Hair

So I will take you back to about 10 years ago, remember when Indian was the newest and best hair. Well, let me jog your memory a little more around that time is when you first heard the term 3A-5A. That was when someone said that was the best. Then every couple of years after the number of A’s kept growing. But sometimes the quality still seemed the same. Did you ever have the feeling that the hair suppliers came up with this system just to hike the price up without really explaining why? Also, if that wasn’t enough you had people singing the Virgin Remi (Remy Episode 118 : What is Remy Hair) song.

We will talk about the 3 most commonly used different grading systems. Let me make this clear, no certified board of cosmetology or manufacture controls the validity of this ever-changing grading system. So let’s try and make some sense of this craziness. The first will be Grades using A to describe the amount of premium hair strands being used in the 3.5-4 ounces of hair.

Grade A: 100% human remy hair single drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, less than 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AA: 100% human remy hair 50% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 50% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAA: 100% human remy hair 60% drawn – e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 60% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAA+: 100% human remy hair 75% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, around 75% of the hairs will measure 18″.
Grade AAAAA+: 100% human remy hair 90% drawn e.g. in a bundle of 18″, the majority of the hairs will measure 18″.

• Debunk: this version seems to closely mirror the same explanation given for Single Drawn hair (Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn). Also not all hair harvested from donors is Remy (Remi) Hair.

Now let’s discuss the infamous number system. This is similar to the ranking above. Because let’s be honest when you order hair you would walk in to your hair store or beauty supply and tell the sales clerk that you want quality AAAAAAAA+, so 8A is the same as the written out version. But when you hear 8A you typically associate it towards the quality and luster of the hair. But this system is normally the way most suppliers/retailers grade the integrity of the hair. It is an easier way for the customers to judge the quality of what you are getting and paying for.
This s a hair grade chart:

 

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  •  Debunk a talented well-trained master colorist can dye just about any type of human hair. Correct 4A hair is considered low quality for a number of reasons, but the main factors are due to the health of the donor, and manufactures sourcing technique. Yes, all hair has different lifespans anywhere from 90 days to 5+ years. This is due to the amount of coloring, perming, cutting, and thermal styling. With proper care and conditioning your investment can last for years, if the quality of the hair is high. Lower grade hair is good when matching Yaki texture hair, or if you need the hair for a shorter time frame (3 months).

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Most wholesalers use a combination of the number / letter system (i.e. 7A, 8A, 10A, etc.) or another system such as low grade, mid-grade, best or high-grade. They typically will group the hair into these categories. At the end of the day, find a reputable seller that has consistence with providing quality hair.

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v-tip-hair-extension

Episode 124 : What is a V Tip Hair Extension ?

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Episode 124 : What Is A V Tip Hair Extension ?

***Seeing that V tip hair extensions have the same makeup of other types of pre-bonded hair. We have decided to repost a article written by Allyson. Due to the similarities in explanation. The only difference is the type of shape the glue is molded in to tip the hair extension. ******

Episode 121: What Is Keratin Pre-Tipped Hair Extensions?

By Allyson

A V tip hair extension is a small bunch of human hair extensions (also be aware that synthetic hair is often used also) that is pre-dipped into glue adhesive to create a ‘tip’ at the top of the hair. The tip is usually 1/2″ to 1″ in length size, and the width size depends on the type of tip that has been formed. They come in various shapes similar to letters “I” “U” and “V” which is what the various names of the tipped hair extension is called. Knowing which method you are most comfortable with caring for will let you know what kind of pre-bonded hair to go with. You have fusion methods(glue adhesive)The tip that would be most ideal for you will depend on the method you choose to use to install the hair extensions.
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V tip hair extension is hair that has been dipped into a glue adhesive. This means there is enough glue to bond the hair together with your own hair. You can use additional glue adhesive (either in a glue stick form or a pellet (typically used in fusion extensions) to complete the bonding process. You can also use the microbead technique. Pre-glued/pre-bonded hair is hair that has been dipped more than once to give the hair a thicker tip. With pre-glued hair you have enough glue to bond it and attach it to your hair (using a fusion heat wand).

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I-Tip-Hair-extension

Episode 123 : How to install an I-Tip hair extension ?

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Episode 123 : How to install an I-Tip hair extension?

By Trish

Hello, today I will be walking you through how to install an I-Tip hair extension using the micro bead technique. The mirco bead or silicone ring (also is called micro locs, linkies, or beads, tubes or cylinders, mirco ring) is not as hard on the hair as glue. Glue adhesives can tend to pull hair when handling on a day-to-day basis.

Now an I-Tip hair extension looks similar to a shoelace tip. The I-Tip hair extension is a pre dipped into glue adhesive just like all other glue tipped hair. The micro ring method allows for a more natural looking hair extension look. The I-Tip hair extension along the mirco ring will last for couple of months (3-5 months depending on hair growth and handling), but know that the rings should be checked every 90 days to readjust based on individual growth and to be tighten.

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Things you will need

1. Pliers
2. Threading hook or loop
3. Mirco beads or Silicone rings (the amount depends on how many rows you are installing)
4. I-Tip hair extension 2 to 8 oz

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Steps to installing the I-Tip using the Micro Ring system


1. Please part hair into sections. Targeting a section towards the middle allowing your own hair to blend in when finished. Section several rows on the back of your head and the sides of head.

2. Insert the micro ring onto the threading hook or loop.

3. Take a couple strands of your own hair and thread the micro ring onto your own hair strand. Do this by inserting your own hair into the threading hook or loop. Then slide the micro ring onto your own hair.

4. Take the I-Tip hair extension, and insert the I-Tip bond tip into the ring from the bottom.

5. Please clamp the ring shut by using the pliers.

6. Repeat steps until you have reached the desired fullness.

The I-Tip extensions will last for a couple of months. Please take this into consideration to how fast your hair will grow. This will let you know when to retighten the rings or remove rings.

How To Remove Micro Bead Hair Extensions:
Take the pliers and apply pressure to the micro ring by lightly squeezing it in the opposite direction to open it. Slowly slide the I-Tip or hair extensions out.

*Please consult a licensed cosmologist or hair extension specialist to ensure a proper and secure installation.

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v-tip-hair-extension

Episode 122 : What Is Glue Tipped Hair?

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Episode 122 : What Is Glue Tipped Hair?

*** We have decided to repost a article written by Allyson. Due to the similarities in explanation. The only difference is the type of glue adhesive used to tip the hair extension. ******

Episode 121: What Is Keratin Pre-Tipped Hair Extensions?

By Allyson

A glue tipped hair extension is a small bunch of human hair extensions (also be aware that synthetic hair is often used also) that is pre-dipped into glue adhesive to create a ‘tip’ at the top of the hair. The tip is usually 1/2″ to 1″ in length size, and the width size depends on the type of tip that has been formed. They come in various shapes similar to letters “I” “U” and “V” which is what the various names of the tipped hair extension is called. The tip that would be most ideal for you will depend on the method you choose to use to install the hair extensions.
 photo keratinhairextnstionapplication_zps99c56043.jpg

Glue tipped hair is hair that has been dipped one time into a glue adhesive. This means there is not enough glue to bond the hair together with your own hair. If you try to only use the glue that is on the hair extension you will begin to notice shedding, due to not creating a secure bond surrounding the hair. You must have additional glue adhesive (either in a glue stick form or a pellet (typically used in fusion extensions) to complete the bonding process. You can also use the microbead technique. Pre-glued/pre-bonded hair is hair that has been dipped more than once to give the hair a thicker tip. With pre-glued hair you have enough glue to bond it and attach it to your hair (using a fusion heat wand).

 photo pre-bonded-extensions_zps71168397.jpg

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italian keratin glue pellet fusion

Episode 120 : What Is Keratin Glue ?

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Episode 120: What Is Keratin Glue?

By Trish

I wanted to briefly explain what is keratin glue? A subject that is not really talked about to often, because let’s be honest once the hair extension is in; you feel beautiful so who cares right. But I want to explain what is in this keratin glue substance you are using to attach your hair extensions to your hair. Most of you are familiar with the glue stick method. This method is used with a glue gun (nothing special typical arts and craft type), which is used for most installations. Also you have another type of glue that comes in small little pellets that can also used with a melting pot.

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The glue it’s self is a polyamide, which is a macromolecule (is a very large molecule commonly created by polymerization of a smaller subunits) with repeating units linked by amide bonds. This is one of the components that creates a bond that is able to be molded and shaped when heated with a low-temperature glue gun operate at approximately 120 °C (248 °F) and are well suited for hair extension bonding installations.

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Keratin glue is somewhat of a new excitement to the mainstream beauty arena. If you are interested in learning about what is keratin check out this tutorial Episode 114: What Is Keratin? by Rebecca. This will outline the hype surrounding Keratin. Although some in the industry strongly debate and question if there are actual traces of Keratin in the glue whatever properties of the glue are slightly different than the normal clear glue. Here is the first point the break down of the regular glue when exposed to water or oil products slowly breakdown the bonding structure of the glue. The Italian Keratin glue has a stronger lasting hold that stands up to oil and water base products.

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Now if you don’t want to spend the money just yet on this new wonder keratin glue. I have seen stylist melt down glue pellets and add keratin protein powder to the glue as an additive. Now here is my first warning if you failed chemistry then forget this whole paragraph because more than likely you’re going to have an weird science type of fallout. Oh wow, I think I’m showing my age annnyway. If you are not comfortable mixing something like color, it is safe to just buy it already mixed to try.

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The best remover for the keratin glue or regular glue would be something like Seabreeze or 91% Isopropyl Alcohol will breakdown the glue. At this point moisten the glue surrounding the hair, put the hair in-between your thumb and forefinger and press and apply pressure. Begin applying pressure to the area that has the glue on it. Procced by rolling the area back and forth until you start to see the glue crumble into pices. At this point slowly and gently pick the pices of crumbled glue out of the hair. Once all glue has been removed slowly comb from root to tip to make sure that all glue areas have been properly removed. I hope this has answered some questions.

Trish

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