Single Drawn vs Double Drawn

Episode 125 : What is Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn Hair?

Episode 125: What is Double Drawn Hair?

By Rico

 

Helloo Ladies,

It has been a long time. Well I would like to discuss what is Single Drawn Hair Vs. Double Drawn Hair. I recently had this discussion with a client who had purchased some loose hair from AEOMH. She was not aware of the term Single drawn vs. double drawn. She wanted to know why weren’t all the hairs the exact same length. I explained that traditionally single drawn hair is normally fuller toward the weft or tip. This is how our natural hair grows, allowing for a more natural finish towards the ends of the hair. A normal 3.5-4 ounces of hair will be a mix of the length you desire (i.e. 8”, 10”, 12”, 16”, 18”, etc.) which would be 50% 22” and then a 50% mix of 16” and 18”. Thus is allowing for that natural finish that gradually tapers off. Now let me let you in on a little secret, single drawn hair is cheaper. But can made to appear just as full as double drawn hair by trimming it up towards the fuller part (sometimes ¼ to ½ of an inch approximately). This hair is great if loads of volume is not a priority. I am not saying it can’t be achieved with the help of a great mouse (Wella, Redken) and a great volume hairspray like Redken Triple Take 32 high hold.doublele drawn photo Single-Drawn-vs-Double-Drawn_zpsbfx88fm7.jpg

Now, here comes the crash course in understanding the term double drawn. When the hair is laid out for measuring after the hacking, the hair undergoes an additional process before the weft can be sewn. The shorter hairs are removed by hand and not by a sorting machine. The alternative is to cut the human hair at the ends, so that the fullness remains the same from the top to end and then the hair is sewn into the weft. This significantly increases the volume of the hair extensions and provides for a fuller body, and more glamorous appearance of the hair extensions.

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At the end of day let’s be honest about 2 things. #1 would be the budge you are working with. This is an investment and should have a considerable amount of thought and research, put into the decision. #2 would be finding a picture of the desired style and either consulting a licenses stylist for a recommendation on how to achieve a finished look. The best advice I can give is to buy quality hair from a source you have dealt with or has decent feedback from their buyers. Many sellers are passing off human hair that is mixed and won’t hold up.

Rico

 

 

 

 

 

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Episode 105: How to use dry shampoo

Express Dry Dry Wash - Waterless Shampoo By- Paul MitchellEpisode 105: How to use dry shampoo

By Rico

Many hairstylists and dermatologists have began the campaign that supports the theory that washing your hair too much can strip away healthy natural oils and lead to dry, damaged hair. Dry shampoo has been gaining popularity because many dermatologist and beauty experts recommend washing your hair less frequently to keep hair shiny and healthy. Dry shampoo can be used in between washes if you’re trying to lengthen the life of your hairstyle or blow-out.

So dry shampoo is a dry substance that cleans your hair without the use of water. Dry shampoos work by absorbing oil from your scalp and hair, and making it look and feel like freshly washed hair. The ingredients in the spray-type of dry shampoos are usually a mixture of aerosol agents, powder substances, absorbing agents, solvents, conditioning agents and fragrance. It is not meant to take the place of regularly washing your hair with water, but to serve as a means of lengthening time between washes or to use in a time crutch. The max limit that the dry shampoo should be used is 2-3 times before fully washing hair.

Dry shampoos usually come in the form of an actual powder (hence baby powder or cornstarch substance), a liquid that comes from a pump dispenser, or an aerosol spray. Whichever one you choose, please pay attention to the color of the actual product due the white residue that can be left after using some dry shampoo products please use a agent close to you hairs natural color. i

If you have dark colored hair you can rest assure that you will not see little sprinkles of white particles. As the product is applied please allow a couple of minutes (2-4 minutes) for the product to activate and began absorbing the oils in the hairs root. You can apply the product directly to the scalp by separating the hair into sections. The product doesn’t coat the hair with a thick powdery substance. This product will lock onto excess oils on the root of the hair and absorb oils quickly. After brushing the product fully through the body of the hair. Begin to style as normal. You will start to notice the bounce and liveliness reappear to limp oily hair.  Please make note that you are suppose to hold the can 6-8 inches from hair to spray a lite mist over the scalp. Most clients make the mistake of holding the can like it’s a styling spray or oil sheen and spraying it too much, too closely to the hairs scalp. This process is meant to clean the oils from the scalp shaft to give life and body back to the hair quickly.

There are also natural alternatives to the commercial brand dry shampoos, which often contain many chemicals to aid the absorbing process, you can buy organic dry shampoos as well, which are made from all-natural ingredients.

 

 Things to remember if using dry shampoo

  1. Hold spray at least 6-8 inches away from the roots.
  2. Do not spray on damp or wet hair.
  3.  Wait about 2-4 minutes before styling. Please don’t panic when you see a white substance appear. Allow time to absorb on to hairs root. Please note you must comb through hair and began styling with a comb, blow dryer, or flat iron.
  4. Dry shampoo can be used on the roots and ends to give added volume and depth to the texture of the hair.
  5. Do not worry if product gets on the mid-shaft. This will aid in more volume, decreasing the feel of fine lifeless hair.
  6. What is the difference between spray and powder dry shampoos? Both do the same thing: soak up excess oil.  The force of the spray of powder helps aid is absorbing oil. However the powder version, you don’t have to deal with the lite fragrance odors. The use of the powder version is good for those that have serve allergies to airborne particles and certain fragrances.
  7.  Please limit the use of any dry shampoo agent to 2-3 times in between washes.
  8. The hairs natural oils from your scalp will soon start to weigh down your hair, giving it a heavy greasy look. Dry shampoo is great for all hair types. Women of color can benefit from using a dry shampoo to extend the life of the hair in between salon visits. It helps aide in the drying of heavy natural oils that start to weigh down. This is a way to decrease the amount of natural oils being absorbed into the body of the hair without taking out the natural oils that the scalp needs.

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Episode 104: How to choose a hair dryer

Hair_Technic_Dryer_all eyes on me hairEpisode 104: How to choose a hair dryer

By Rico

 

The crazy idea that the hotter the hair dryer will get the quicker it will dry my hair, wrong! Understanding what you use to dry your hair can either help or kill it quick. Let’s take the time to understand some key components when choosing a hair dryer. I came across this tutorial online and it explained in detail the differences in what a good vs. bad hair dryer can do to hair over time.

 

The Heating Element:

•     Cheap hair dryers normally use metal or plastic heating elements that burn with intense and uneven heat. Essentially, they dry your hair by cooking the water out of it – literally boiling it off.

•     If you don’t take great pains to protect your hair, prolonged blow drying will make it grow brittle and eventually break, as your hair can’t stand up to being flash-fried on a regular basis. Even products that protect against heat damage can’t hold up to this kind of heat for long.

•     With high-end hair dryers, ceramic heating is the standard. Ceramic has remarkable properties of heat conduction – which you may know, because modern space heaters and similar home technology tend to use ceramic.

•     This is because ceramic produces “far infrared heat” which is radiant – it penetrates the hair shaft safely, instead of heating from the outside in. This also explains why ceramic flat irons & curling irons are the choice of professionals.

•     Ceramic, which can be infused with tourmaline or other elements, produces a gentle heat that means ceramic heating is safer – ceramic space heaters won’t catch things on fire the way metal ones are prone to do, and ceramic hair dryers won’t blast your hair with harmful energy.

 

“Ionic” drying:

•     Cheap hair dryers that use metal or plastic elements diffuse positive ions that cause the (normally neutral) cuticle covering of the hair shaft to open, causing frizz and dull appearance.

•     Ionic hair dryers produce negatively charged ions, which cause the cuticle to remain flat, “trapping” moisture, eliminating frizz and giving hair more body

 

Tourmaline:

•     Tourmaline was recently introduced to the hair science for its incredible capability to generate negative ions. With more negative ions, a hair dryer can dry faster (up to 70%) for unbelievably sleeker, shiny hair.

•     Tourmaline hair dryers can be combined with tourmaline treated brushes or other heat styling tools like tourmaline flat irons to add to the shiny, sleek effect.

 

Wattage:

•        While wattage varies among hair dryers, we always recommend something 1300 watts or above (unless a travel hair dryer). All of our professional hair dryers fit this category. Wattage directly affects how fast your hair dries (higher watts = more time to snooze in the morning).

 

•        Plus, they dry hair faster than regular dryers and leave it shinier and smoother. This is because they don’t “cook” your hair dry like the old metal or plastic coils did – they actually break down water molecules in your hair instead. Ionic dryers also banish the static electricity that results in a flyaway mess of hair.=Ceramic charges ions negatively – to an extent – but combining it with other

 

settings

  • We recommend a hair dryer with multiple speed settings (standard on professional hair dryers).

 

  • Separate heat settings are also a plus; if your hair is only damp, use cooler settings.

 

Cool Shot options available on most hair dryers create a blast of cool air which is useful when setting finished styles – you can use it to dry finishing sprays or similar setting products.

 

Emfs

Many people look for hair dryers that say they produce “low EMFs”, or electromagnetic fields. The old traditional dryers produce EMFs at levels considered potentially dangerous for prolonged use, while today’s professional quality dryers generally produce very low amounts – this is safer for you and also friendlier to the environment.

 

Information cited from http://www.misikko.com/best-hair-dryer.html. Check out salon tools at All Eyes On Me Hair http://alleyesonmehair.com/product-category/salon-tools/

 
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Episode 103: What is sulfate-free shampoo?

sulfate free

Episode 103: What is sulfate-free shampoo?

By Rico

What is sulfate-free?

Sulfate free shampoos have no bubbles when it lathers. Verses your regular shampoo, which have a chemical agent, referred to as Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. These are commonly found in hand soaps and laundry detergent. Please be aware of the list of ingredients on the label. If these two ingredients are in the top five listed means that a majority of your shampoo has this agent in it. The common misconception is that when washing your hair the sudsy white bubbles produce nice clean hair this is wrong. These bubbles break down the moisture that is locked into the hair follicles. This also can start to damage the hairs follicles, which will slow the hairs growth cycle.

The more you use the sulfate free shampoos your hair will start to have a natural shine to it and feel more soft and manageable. There are more benefits to using sulfate free products, such as in alot of make up you wear contains some sort of sulfate that can lead to irritation and breakouts. I strongly suggest trying a sulfate free shampoo for a month to give your hair a chance to fully react to the change. And then make a serious decision if a sudsy lather is worth the prolonged damage to your skin, body and hair.

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Episode 102: How to choose a ph level shampoo?

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Episode 102: How to choose a Ph level shampoo?

By Rico

Let’s attack the number one subject how do you pick the right Ph level shampoo for your hair or hair extensions? Understanding what kind of hair you have? Most Asian, Indian, and Peruvian hair types are naturally straight or slightly wavy hair types. Those hair types do not require to many hair products to maintain their natural luster and shine. In a nutshell what your natural hair may need is something totally different from what your hair extensions or wigs require to maintain shine and luster.

The acronym PH stands for potential hydrogen. The PH level is a reference to how many hydrogen ions are present in a substance. The PH level is used to indicate how much alkaline is in a substance or how acidic the substance is. Varying pH levels in shampoos have different effects on diffeerent hair types.

Most Asian, Indian, and Peruvian hair responds better to a low PH level shampoo. A good Ph level in a shampoo level is measured at a level 7 or below. Is the counter effect to prevent dull, dry brittle lifeless hair. It also preserves color treatments without stripping the shine off of the hair and helps them last a lot longer. Acidic shampoos also help add additional shine and maintain moisture without overly coating the hair and making it appear dull.

Top 5 picks

AG Hair Cosmetics Moisture & Shine Fast Food (sulfate-free) Ph 5

Joico Body Luxe Thickening PH 4.5

Kenra Clarifying Shampoo PH 4.5

Davines Well Being De Stress Muesli & Yogurt Shampoo PH 5.5

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor PH 4.5

List of shampoos with low PH levels

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor pH 4.5-5.5

Tresemme Antibreakage = 5.40

White Rain Extra Body = 5.35

Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose Conditioner = 5

Tresemme Naturals Moisturizing Conditioner = 5

Luster’s S-Curl Activator and Moisturizer = 5.5

Suave Humectant Conditioner = 4.5

ORS replenishing 5

Yes to Cucumbers Color care leave-in 5

Yes to Carrots pampering hair mud 5

Kiss My Face Whenever Shampoo: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Conditioner: btwn 4.0 & 5.0

Aubrey Organics Honey suckle Rose Conditioner: btwn 5.0 & 6.0

Oyin handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Jessicurl Too Shea Extra Moisturizing Conditioner: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Jessicurl Aloeba Daily Conditioner: btwn 4.0 and 5.0

Curls Curly Q’s Coconut Dream Moisturizing Conditioner: 5.0

Millscreek Botanicals Biotin Cond.: btwn 5.0 & 6.0

Aphogee Keratin 2 Min Reconstructor: btwn 5.0 & 6.0

Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier 4.5

Giovanni Smooth as Silk Shampoo is 6

Giovanni Deep Moisturizer Conditioner is 5.5

Ion Clarifying Shampoo 5.5

Avalon Organics Moisturizing Shampoo 5

Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner 4.5 or 5

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